While the interplay between the built and natural
environments occupies the bulk of my ruminations, every now and then I can’t
help but indulge myself. And I
step fully into the world of pure imagination. The aisles of a Meijer discount hypermarket store might not
be exactly what Roald Dahl had in mind through his chocolate factory (or Leslie
Bricusse), but it’s just about as fabricated as a movie set...
…and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. For those who live in Michigan, Ohio,
Indiana, Illinois or Kentucky, Meijer is as much a part of the shopping landscape
as Walmart. It’s a fierce
competitor in these five states, and I have no doubt it continues to frustrate
the executives in Bentonville, Arkansas—my suspicion is that Walmart’s market
share in this part of the country is lower than it otherwise would be, thanks
to this modest chain that germinated just outside of Grand Rapids, Michigan
exactly 80 years ago, making it nearly 30 years older than the world’s largest
retailer. But how did Meijer
remain confidently ensconced in its Midwestern niche when Walmart dethroned so
many others? (Ames, Pharmor, and
Venture went the way of passenger pigeon well over a decade ago, even if some telltale labelscars remain.)
I could expound on how Meijer has effectively cramped
Walmart’s style for a few decades now, all while refusing ever to go
public. It avoids far-flung
locations like its home state’s Upper Peninsula, no doubt saving it a fortune
in logistical costs. It expands its
territory slowly, preferring to densify within its five signature states for the
time being;
rumors of an inaugural location in Wisconsin have yet to materialize. It has attempted to broaden its scope
through standalone discount department stores (without the groceries),
pharmacies, warehouse clubs (like Sam’s Club), and specialty clothing. None of these concepts proved fruitful,
so the home office closed them within a few years. Yet it continues to flourish in that cluster of great lakes states
(and Kentucky). Last year, Meijer
opted to open a store in the Detroit city limits, seen in the photo above--a breakthrough of sorts, since many other major retailers (including the
goliath from Arkansas) have shunned the Motor City. These conservative strategies may have helped Meijer survive
the competition that Walmart decimated, but I’d like to think another tactic
has helped give the regional chain its edge.
Virtually every Meijer that I’ve seen has an entire row in
its well-maintained grocery devoted to ethnic foods. The specific location often dictates exactly what options it
sells, but regardless of the offerings, most evidence suggests that the company
has done its research. Rarely will
you see Walmart accommodate an ethnic group (such as Amish buggy parking in Northern Indiana). But online forums like British Expats routinely refer to Meijer—not Walmart—as the go-to for hard-to-find European
goodies, and most locations have at least a small but well-stocked British shelves,
including the one in the Detroit suburb of Allen Park featured above. This particular location, with a trade
area that includes sizable Mexican, Polish, and Arab populations, not
surprisingly offers generous Latino, Eastern European and Middle Eastern sections. It also distinguishes the Indian
subcontinent from the rest of Asia.
But what really caught my attention was the adjective before
these regional references.
We see “authentic Italian” followed by “pasta”. Does this imply that the pasta section,
for whatever reason, is otherwise inauthentic? Or is it pasta from other countries? Meijer also splits hairs on the other
side of the aisle, providing its customers with “authentic Mexican”—
and “Mexican” without the authenticity.
Tex-Mex. Or
American Mexican. A taqueria versus Taco Bell. Various studies have shown three ethnic
cuisines in the United States consistently vie for the title of most
popular—and, not surprisingly, the most ubiquitous. While the US has more Chinese restaurants than McDonald’s,
Italian cuisine has long rated most highly. But the surge of Mexicans and the cultural influence have
elicited a concomitant increase in the popularity of cuisine from south of the border.
Virtually all ethnicities, however, can claim a rise in the popularity of their cuisines. Thirty years ago, Thai and
Indian restaurants were relatively rare outside of the biggest metro areas; now
they are fairly easy to find in a small city of 50,000.
The inevitable result of this? We see more Americanized knock-offs, as well as Meijer’s
need to distinguish between the “authentic” (often imported) and the
bastardized. No doubt in another
decade, with the ascendancy of falafel, hummus, and shawarma, Middle Eastern
cuisine will approach mainstream status, just as it already has in Metro
Detroit, home of one of the largest Arab populations outside of ethnically Arab
countries. We already have hummus
flavors that would constitute blasphemy in many parts of the world, adulterated
to meet mainstream American tastes.
The “authentic” partition in the grocery aisle will soon envelop new
nations, impelling greater need to distinguish idiosyncratic, ethnically precise
merchandise from its vanilla counterparts…and another opportunity for Meijer to
capitalize on something it already does well.